In France the cheese comes after the main course and before dessert, it is eaten with bread instead of crackers, and a good board does not need much money. On Sunday 13 December I’m building one live at my kitchen table in Clugnat, with Le Clugnat, the farmhouse tomme made here in my village, and three spreads you can make days ahead.

I put it all into a printable handout, A French Cheese Board on a Village Budget. Inside you’ll find:

• how the French cheese course works, and how to choose four cheeses that go together
• building the board from the middle out, and how to cut each cheese so everyone gets their share of rind and heart
• fromage fort, the thrifty French way to use up leftover cheese
• chicken liver pâté with Cognac and thyme, sealed under butter the old French way
• a lentil and walnut pâté for the vegetarians at your table

All three spreads keep for days, so you can plan a Thanksgiving, Christmas or New Year’s table now. Enter your name and email below and I’ll send the handout straight to your inbox.